Day 5 (April 25, 2017): An Abbey in Normandy
Today was all about "surprise destination #4" on what I'm starting to refer to as the "Life after 50 Tour"! It's a destination that I've always wanted to visit, since - from all the pictures I've ever seen - it has always seemed like one of the most magical places on earth. (In fact, it was built to reach the heavens!). And trust me, it did not disappoint us...
It was an early rise, as we were booked on a 7am TGV (France's famed 'train de grand vitesse') out of Gare Montparnasse. All I had told Pam was, "We need to be out the door at 6:40am - you'll find out more along the way!" Inquisitive soul that she is, she kept asking questions throughout last night, but I was adamant she would not find out the plan until the last minute.
It was an early rise, as we were booked on a 7am TGV (France's famed 'train de grand vitesse') out of Gare Montparnasse. All I had told Pam was, "We need to be out the door at 6:40am - you'll find out more along the way!" Inquisitive soul that she is, she kept asking questions throughout last night, but I was adamant she would not find out the plan until the last minute.
About to board the TGV to Rennes. Smoothest, fastest ride we've ever had on a train.
We made it to Track #2 at Monparnasse at 6:50am, equipped with fresh pain-au-chocolat from a patisserie at the station. It was at that moment that I told her we would be taking the TGV to Rennes in northwestern France, and that we would carry on to Mont St-Michel from there. She was thrilled at the idea!
Our TGV ride was amazing. Smooth, fast, quiet, comfortable. I had booked first class seats for this special occasion, and it was really worth it. The French countryside sailed by in the morning sunlight, field after field of yellow rapeseed plants painting the journey. It was a sight to behold!
The French countryside is yellow with rapeseed blooms in April. Field after field like this!
We arrived in Rennes on time (everything with the TGV is on time!) at 9:15am and promptly boarded a bus to Mont St-Michel, passing through many tiny stone-built villages of Normandy en route. A few kilometres away, we got our first sight of Mont St-Michel. You know the feeling: something you've wanted to see all your life, something you've anticipated and imagined, and then - suddenly - it's in sight!
Approaching Mont St-Michel
Mont St-Michel dates back to the year 1000, when an abbey was first built there. It was later used as a prison after the French Revolution, until Napolean closed it to prison use in 1862. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and welcomes 2.5 million visitors a year. On a Monday in April, we thought we'd have the place to ourselves. NOT. The place was teeming with tourists, so much so, it was often hard to walk the narrow streets up to the abby. Despite the crowds, it was a joy to walk through the medieval village with its endless cafes and shops. The ramparts atop the fortress walls, as well as the terraces atop the Mont, offer amazing views of the sand flats. We were there at low tide, but thanks to a new causeway, even at high tide Mont St-Michel is no longer cut off from the mainland as it was in the past.
It was low-tide when we arrived. A modern causeway now connects the Mont to the mainland, making passage easier than in the past.
The fortress walls, which made Mont St-Michel impenetrable over the centuries.
This plaque explains how the Abbé of Mont St-Michel gave Cartier the order to go explore the rivers of Canada!
Spring blossoms are in full swing all over Europe. Lilacs and other trees, such as this one, are at their peak.
Climbing up to the Abbey
The spire was renovated in the 1990s and was re-capped with the help of a helicopter.
Inside the gothic cathedral
Vaulted arches from the Middle Ages have stood the test of centuries.
The relatively new causeway connecting Mont St-Michel to the mainland resolves the 'high tide' access issue
The English tried to conquer Mont St-Michel many times in order to gain a stronghold in France, but it repeatedly proved impenetrable, and has therefore always been a symbol of national unity and pride for the French.
We enjoyed a simple lunch (a sweet crepe for Pam and a ham-filled galette for me) at a cafe overlooking the bay and then headed back for our 2:30 bus back to Rennes. Our TGV back to Gare Montparnasse left at 4:05 and we were back at the station in Paris at 6:25.
Sorry - I couldn't resist adding one more yellow rapeseed field picture! We were so taken with them.
Pam assumed this was the last stop on the itinerary of surprises, so wanting to make the most of our last evening, we took the Metro to Îsle de la cité to have a look at Notre Dame Cathedral and the Seine River. The sun continued to shine and the sky was light until 9pm! We had our final European dinner in a small restaurant overlooking Notre Dame, then took the Metro back to our hotel.
Notre Dame Cathedral and the Seine River. We sat in front of the church 10 years ago and Pam read messages and cards wishing her a happy 40th birthday. How time has flown.
The ceiling of one of the Paris Metro stations. Paris' stations range from original wrought-iron ornate decor from the early 20th century to more modern art installations, such as this tribute to pop singers.
It was a very special day, albeit a long one -- almost 15 hours out and about. Before calling it a night, I informed Pam there would be one more stop on the tour. She was shocked and, of course, started pummeling me with questions. I remained tight-lipped. So we shall see what tomorrow brings!
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